Why Get In

Angles - Read almost any wildlife photography book and one of the key points of composition is perspective and being at eye level with your subject.  Whether it’s a bird or a person, eye contact in a photo engages and draws the viewer into the shot. When in the water, you can often use the depth of the water to your advantage to place your camera closer to the eye level of your subject, especially subjects floating on the waters surface.  Changing your elevation also makes you think in different, creative, ways. For example taking scenic shots at water level can better convey the size and power of a waterfall.  Changing your viewpoint can help you produce something different and engaging. 



Approachability - In my experience, approaching animals from the water is far easier than from land.  I have literally had red breasted mergansers swimming within arm’s reach of me in the water.  That same bird a half hour later would not let me approach with 50 feet when I was on land.  Why the difference?  To be honest I don’t know, maybe they know that I just can’t move fast in the water, or maybe once in the water they no longer perceive me as "man", a danger, but as another big dopey wading bird that isn’t very good at catching fish.  Maybe they just know they can fly or swim away when ever they want, and I can’t do a thing about that.  Most likely, I think, when you wade you slow down, and move much more cautiously and deliberately than on land, giving the animal more time to adjust to your presence.  Whatever the reason, time and again, I am given opportunities from the water that I can not duplicate when on land.  Animal after animal has let me into their comfort zone and given me glimpses of their lives that I would not have seen if I had not been in the water with them.



Access - For some species, you simply won’t find them anywhere else but in the water.  Whether its ducks, alligators, or otters, you have to go to where they live.  Observing and photographing them in their natural element also provides you with opportunities to produce shots that capture the true nature and behavior of these species.

The Dangers

Wildlife

Working the coastal areas, I continually have people stop and ask me about the dangers, "aren’t you scared of sharks?", "have you ever seen a crocodile?", "have you ever got red tide poisoning?"  The truth of the matter is that the creatures that populate the coastal areas are a far lesser danger to us than most other environmental dangers.  Within the diversity of creatures that populate the coastal areas are a small percentage of animals and plants that can be dangerous to humans if encountered.  Most of the danger comes from defensive mechanisms that these creatures have evolved, and the vast majority of the time it is only through our accidentally or carelessly interacting with them that we can be injured by them.  As with any wild creature, understanding the real risks posed by them, their likely habitat, signs of presence, and what to do if you encounter them, will go a long way to keeping you and them safe.  The variety of creatures you may encounter are simply too many to cover in this article.  I strongly recommend you get some good guidebooks, talk to local guides or naturalists, or invest some time in a class, for example the Florida Master Naturalist Program.



Environmental

Currents and Tides –Water is a constantly moving, and the interaction of tides, weather, and topography can create potentially
dangerous conditions.  In coastal areas one of the primary dangers is from rip currents, sometimes referred to as rip tides or undertow.  These are narrow, strong currents running perpendicular to a beach, that move water back out to sea.  According to most experts and studies, rip currents are one of the most threatening natural hazards along the United States coast.  The United States Life Saving Association reports that 80% of the rescues made by lifeguards on ocean beaches involve saving people caught and dragged out to sea by rip currents. Between 100 and 150 deaths a year are attributed to these currents. In some areas tide changes can also present hazards.  Rapidly changing tides can leave a wader submerged or stranded.  Rapid changes in tides can also create powerful currents that can sweep in debris or knock a person in the water off balance.

In moving water such as rivers, check the strength of the current, and be aware of conditions or events up or down stream.  Check for dams in the area that may change water flows, or sudden storms that may deliver a large volume of water in a short time period.



Weather –Especially in Florida where I shoot, there is always a chance of sudden storms.  If you are out wading, it will take you longer to get to shelter than if you were on dry land.  At the first sign of an approaching storm, it is wise to get out of the water and get to cover.  When heading out, always check the weather forecasts.  In the afternoon especially, check the weather often for severe storm warnings or watches and watch the horizon for building clouds indicating the formation of thunderheads. 

Tips and Techniques

Dress to the Temps – There are two types of wading, wet wading or dry wading.  To wet wade, just jump in.  In warmer waters, this is a great choice, just plan to bring dry clothes to change in to for the car ride home.  I usually do not wear anything special when wet wading, just my usual quick drying convertible nylon hiking pants.  When its time to go, if I am wet from the knees down, I can just unzip them and be dry for the ride home.  My trick is I always have a spare pair of "legs" in the same color as what I am wearing in my truck.  If needed, I can then put a dry pair of legs on without having to change my pants.   

In colder waters, dry wading is the only way to go. If you plan to be wading for long periods of time, be aware that the risk of immersion hypothermia starts at water temperatures of 77° F or colder.  Waders or wet suits will help keep you warm in these types of conditions.  In colder water, I wear breathable stockingfoot chest waders with a separate wading boot.  There is plenty of debate over stockingfoot waders versus bootfoot waders.  Stocking foot waders have an attached neoprene bootie that your foot goes in, and you wear a separate wading boot over the bootie.  Bootfoot have the boot built right into the wader.  There are advantages to both, stockingfoot waders are generally more comfortable if hiking any distance, but are more susceptible to damage from debris getting into the boot than bootfoot waders.  My advice is to try them both, and buy based on your intended use and how comfortable you find them.  I shoot mainly in warmer climates, so while a typical day may start out cold, it can get quite warm by mid day. For me the breathable waders are far more comfortable in this type of climate.  In colder waters, heavier Gore-Tex or neoprene waders are good options.  Look for models that give you a good fit, are heavily reinforced at the knees, and resistant to snags.  And regardless of the type you choose always wear a wading belt and carry a wading stick for safety.  In the event of a fall, a wading belt will keep your waders from filling with water, a potentially deadly situation.

Check water temperature, wear proper temperature protective clothing, and limit your time in the water.  You can add layers of thermal underwear or fleece wading pants under your waders, just be careful not to overdo it, as too many layers will restrict your movement and lead to overheating.

Protect your feet – In terms of beach related injuries, far more stitches are put in people’s feet from stepping on junk at the beach than any other source.  Broken glass, shell fragments, corals, and other items below the water can lacerate unprotected feet.  When wet wading I generally wear an "aquatic sneaker" a.k.a. a "water shoe", a light weight closed toe athletic shoe that has thick soles with good traction and vents water.  There are many different brands available, such as Salomon and Merrell.  The best I have found is the "Wet Wading Shoe" by Orvis, specifically designed for this type of activity, they will not corrode or rot and are comfortable enough for all day use.  Although they are all pricey, they are built to go in the water, and will not fall apart as quickly as hiking boots or regular sneakers will after repeated immersion. 

In waders, regardless of built in boot or stocking foot types, the big consideration is the kind of sole on your boots, with the basic choice being felt or knobby.  Felt is ideal for slippery rock bottoms, while knobby is better in mud.  Neither is good in all situations, for example wearing felt on a mudflat is akin to ice skating.   You can add studs to felt to give you more traction, but studs are uncomfortable to walk in on hard packed ground.  The other option is the "Aquastealth" sole which claims to be the best of both worlds.  I have a pair of aquastealth soled boots by Simms, and while not quite as good as knobby soles in mud they do a pretty good job, and are great on moss covered rocks.  Again, they are pricey, so chose your boot type based on where you will most often be wading.  

Slow Down and Shuffle – On dry land when hiking the rule is "Never put your feet or hands where you can’t see them".   When wading, this is not always possible.  If the water is stirred up, odds are you will not be able to see where you are putting your feet.  This can pose a real danger, increasing your odds of stepping on a creature or debris, slipping, tripping, or falling.  When wading, slowing down is key to your safety.  I plan a step at a time; first picking up my tripod, moving it forward and making sure it is stable.  I then move up behind it, never raising my foot more than 12 inches off the bottom.  If wading in areas with lots of underwater debris, I may only move a few inches at a time.  This staggered movement ensures I do not step in a hole or trip and knock my gear in the water.  In saltwater as I step forward I also do the "stingray shuffle", dragging my feet to alert any creatures on the bottom to my presence, and to knock any debris that may trip me up out of the way.  In deeper water, I often use my tripod legs as "feelers", to find debris, or holes that can pose a danger. 

Try to avoid climbing over debris, take the time to go around if possible.  If this is not an option, I set my tripod on the other side of the obstruction, make sure its stable, and if possible also use my hands to hold onto the debris as I climb over.  I would much rather dry my hands off than risk a full dunking.  If wading in moving water, try to keep your body sideways to the current, this will allow you to balance better, presenting less surface area for the water to push against.  It is always easier to wade downstream than up, just remember if you do head down stream, you will have to come back up at some point.

Slowing down also enables you to approach wildlife easier.  Most species in the water are particularly alert to movement and sound; rapid movements, thrashing, or splashing will most likely make them flee.   Also by slowing down and minimizing disturbance in the water you are less likely to scare off the fish and other creatures that live below the surface.  Even if you didn’t scare off your subject with splashing, scaring off their food source will make them much more likely to leave. 

Keep your distance – When wading, stay at stay at least 100 feet away from piers, jetties, or other structures in the water when surf is rough as rip currents often exist along the side of fixed objects in the water.

Be aware of water conditions – Always check tides and weather forecasts before you go out.  Always heed any warning flags or signs, and if there are lifeguards or park personnel present, ask them about the conditions. 

Have a Rag Ready – When around water, especially salt, have a dry rag ready to wipe off any splashes or spray.  Be sure you have it stowed somewhere that will stay dry; I usually keep a small cloth inside a sealed plastic baggie.  While wading I have had fish jump directly in front of me and splash water all over my gear.  A quick wipe with a rag was all I needed to keep shooting.  If the wind is really kicking up a lot of spray, I use storm jacket covers, a large one to cover the lens and body and a separate 9" one just for my flash.  I also always keep a large garbage bag or two in a pouch attached to my tripod that I can pull down over my whole camera and lens in the event of a sudden rain storm.

Clip and Zip – Minimize the chances you will drop something by attaching everything to you.  Use retractable cords or lanyards if necessary for anything that does not have a secure place in your vest or harness.  Make sure all pockets are zipped or buttoned shut, you don’t want to have something fall out if you bend over (which is how I lost my first cell phone and learned this very important lesson!).

Keep items high and dry – A lot of times when wading after a subject it is easy to get so caught up in the moment that you do not know how deep in the water you may have gone.  Keep all items that are vulnerable to water damage waist high or higher.  I never put items in pants pockets, preferring pouches on my belt harness or my shirt pockets instead.  You should periodically check pouches on belts or vests to see if you splashed or dunked them, if so, take a moment and dry off any contents that are wet.  Wading is one of the main reasons I use a belt harness system. 
Made of water repellant materials, the pouches and cases can quickly be removed and placed higher to keep them from getting submerged.   

Simplify and Scale Down – Minimizing your gear selection cuts down on weight, and worries about dunking all your gear.  My waders have a built-in front fly pocket that I can use to store the bare essentials; media, dry rag, a teleconvertor, and a battery.  If you feel you need to carry more, many vests designed for fly fisherman are great options for photographers too; they have many water proof pockets that can store accessories.



Get in Shape – Wading is a resistance exercise, every time you take a step, not only are you moving the weight of your body and gear, but you are also fighting against the resistance of the water.  A few minutes of wading can dramatically raise your heart rate, and coupled with the other environmental factors such as cold or sun, this can cause serious problems for some people.  Far more people die at the beach as a result of cardiac arrest than any other cause.  Do not get out in the water unless you are physically fit and acclimated to this type of activity.  Check with your physician if you have any doubts or are not accustomed to this type of strenuous activity.

Get a guide – Consider hiring a local guide (shameless plug) who knows the locations, can teach proper techniques for handling the local conditions, and can get you to the subjects you want.  They know the dangers, how to handle the elements, where to go, and when to go there, better than anyone else.  This can help guarantee you a more enjoyable, productive, and most importantly, a safe outing.

When it comes to working around water, don’t be scared, just be prepared.  Education, awareness of your surroundings, and careful preparation will not only keep you safe but help you get better shots out on those sandy, salty, muddy shores.

About the Author

Jason Hahn is a Florida nature photographer, whose work has been published in numerous books and magazines.  As an avid outdoorsman, he will hike his gear into the muddiest, buggiest, hottest, most humid, unforgiving places Florida has to offer.  Coincidentally, he also offers guide services for when you want to visit those places (shameless plug #2). 

Disclaimer

The contents of this article are for informational purposes only.  Wade at your own risk.  The author is not a physician, and speaks only from his own experiences which are unique to him.  Take your own personal precautions and consult a physician before engaging in any outdoor or strenuous activity.